How to Do Your Own Big Chop and Go Natural

Doing a big chop can be incredibly scary. A lot of us Black women have had relaxed hair our whole lives, so wanting to go natural is really not an easy decision. But doing a big chop, while slightly intimidating, is a great option for discovering and taking care of your natural hair pattern without the pains of growing out your relaxer. So, keep scrolling to read more about how to do your own big chop.

That's why we reached out to natural haircare expert Candace Witherspoon of the New York City-based Candace Witherspoon Salon to create a step-by-step guide on how to do your own big chop at home. So grab your cutting tools and get ready to follow along.

How to Prepare

First, you want to ensure that your hair is freshly washed, detangled, air-dried, and free of any styling products that can manipulate your natural texture. This way, you can clearly spot the line of demarcation between your natural curls and the relaxed ends.

You'll also need to check that you have the right cutting tools and hair supplies. "Depending on hair texture and how short you're going, that will determine what tools you'll need," Witherspoon says. If you have a few inches of new growth that you want to keep, the stylist recommends sticking to shears. However, if you prefer to really start fresh, make sure to have a pair of clippers and some guards handy.

The Process

1. If you want to keep your length, begin by parting your hair into four sections.
2. Leave one section out and use clips to keep the rest away from the piece you're cutting.
3. From that one section, take small pieces of hair and cut below the line of demarcation on your first pass. "Always start cutting hair on the longer side," Witherspoon suggests. "Give yourself room to make a mistake." (Note: If you use clippers, apply a guard to maintain some length. You can always go over the hair again with scissors to clip off any extra hair. Alternatively, if you prefer a fresh buzz cut, you can completely omit the guards).
4. Repeat until your relaxed ends are gone.
5. To create an even finish, it's all about repetition. "Go over the cut more than once," suggests Witherspoon. "Use a mirror for guidance, and pull at the hair in all directions to check evenness [as you cut.]"
   

No matter which route you choose, remember to take your time. Going natural likely isn't something you decided on overnight, so you don't want to rush this process.

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Post-Cut Maintenance

Be prepared to see a little shrinkage after you cut off your relaxed ends (which inevitably weigh down your hair) and after your first post-big chop wash. If you want to create more volume, use a pick, or do a twist-out to help manipulate your length. If you want more definition, opt for styling creams or gels.

Keep in mind that learning what your natural hair needs is going to be a case of trial and error. And since everyone's tresses are different, there's no one-size-fits-all haircare regimen. In fact, you will more than likely get frustrated with your hair as you figure things out. But if you're willing to be patient, and give your hair a little TLC along the way, you'll leave yourself open to embracing your natural hair journey.

Favorite Products

While it's going to take time to figure out what's right for your unique hair type, Witherspoon encourages experimenting with new products. The general rule of thumb is to use lighter products if you have looser curls, and thicker, richer products if your hair is more coily. Miss Jessie's Pillow Soft Curls are perfect for type 3 styling, while 4C Only's Too Easy Collection is a great system for type 4 kinks.

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To shop: $78; 4conly.com.

Frequently Asked Questions

• What is a big chop?

  A big chop a haircut for natural hair that removes all of your relaxed and/or damaged hair. The result is a close-crop cut that allows you to grow out your natural hair without any relaxed ends.

• How long does it take to grow your hair out after a big chop?

  Everyone's hair grows at different rates, based on a variety of factors including genetics, so it's not easy to pinpoint exactly how long it will take to grow out a big chop.